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 Post subject: Gem photos
PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 8:54 pm 
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I have been practicing taking photos of cut gems which I must say has to be one of the most difficult shots to take. I think these turned out pretty well. Have to work on the angle of the camera to show dispersion properly. spessartine garnet..and to think with a $60(one I just got refurbished) dollar camera I can get pretty good pics(brand new $120) whoever said you needed an expensive camera to take gem or min. pics..this stone is only .90ct. so it's pretty darn small..so those of you out there with cameras that won't get the job done all you need is 60-120 bucks and you got it. This is one of Jason's stones..just have to get angles and lighting a little better and I might have it...some day I will be able to hold a candle to you guys
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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 9:02 pm 
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Are you shooting your stones against a brown background, or is your white balance set to the wrong type of light?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 9:20 pm 
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it's like a light brown piece of poster board...I have a black cloth with a plexiglass sheet I am going to try later this evening...I will also be recieving a light box in the mail next week...I have not been able to get a good clear shot up close of cut stones before not bad for paying 60 bucks for this camera

speaking of which what color backgrounds do you use when taking photos...I have seen black quite a bit but most folks use white...are there certain background colors you use with certain color gems?

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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 11:00 pm 
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It depends on the effect I want and the color of the gem I'm shooting. I don't think a brown background would be my first choice for spessartite. Here's a bi-color tourmaline I shot with two different backgrounds, both in natural light, no editing for color. Overall, lighting's the most important factor IMO.



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PostPosted: Sat Jun 27, 2009 11:35 pm 
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yea, I know brown and spess don't go together..don't want brown in your stone...Iwas tryinh for better close ups than anything else and just grabbed what was handy

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 28, 2009 10:24 am 
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I like a gray.
Black can swallow some stones and white, well I've just gone off it.
Gray to me is a happy compromise and if for the web, will keep your photos uniform.

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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 6:50 pm 
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whatever background color one chooses, the main thing is that the image shows the stone as true as possible. One should not post an image whose colors are different to the stone's color(s).

Mike


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PostPosted: Thu Aug 06, 2009 9:26 pm 
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I think they're nice shots. As you've read, gems are a pain to photograph.

If you haven't seen this thread before, it's a GREAT reference:

http://www.gemologyonline.com/Forum/php ... php?t=6420

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:54 am 
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First off all gemstones should be shot on white background and bases only. Except white/clear which can be taken on dark/black backgrounds and bases. Even gray bases will darken saturations and color tones giving false appearances.

The biggest complaint I get on my advocacy website about sellers is their inaccurate images! That the colors, tones, saturations, etc. just don't match up and look better/different in the image then they do in person. :(. Some is fraud and some is just not knowing and going artistic or over editing in PS.

I understand the love of artistic shots, they look great and they serve their purpose! But when you are trying to sell/market a gemstone they are not the type images you should use solely. Use them in conjunction with a true representative shot(s) for marketing. But at least 1-2 shots should be taken on a white base with a white background. Also the background should be smooth with no discernible patterns. The reason for this is textured and colored backgrounds give a false representation of the stone in question. This is due to a few reasons. One of which is how the Bayer based sensors(those in almost all digital cameras except for a small few) record colors by interpolation. Another is due to how light and colors are absorbed and reflected. An example is an ancient trick used back in the day by scammer Ruby sellers, they would show the stones on a yellow stone paper instead if a white one, because the yellow enhanced the color of the red ruby & gave weaker saturations and shifted colors better "scores" on both. Another example is a maroon background, because the maroon background will deepen and enhance the blue color of the tanzanite, sapphires, and other blue gemstones. Yet, another reason is because faceted gemstones tend to pull in colors and reflections from their backgrounds and surrounding, especially those stone with large amounts of dispersion or pseudo dispersion to start with. The only sure fire way to truly represent a gemstone accurately is to shoot it on a white base with a white background. One image taken straight in line with the table showing no reflections off the facets to allow the showing of the saturation and clarity, and one angled slightly showing reflections off of the facets to show how good/bad the polishing of the stone is. Basically, 3 images per stone is the best way to sell them. Two as mentioned above and a third artistic type image for a marketing type of deal.

When shooting on white you will need to overexpose by +.5 to +1.0 and on black you must underexpose by -.5 to -1.0. Easiest way to do this is by using your cameras EV feature/settings.

A custom white balance must be set. Use an 18% gray card, white balance cap, coffee filter over lens, etc.

Use full spectrum color and temp calibrated lights. I like the 6500K Daylight spiral fluorescent bulbs. I also like GE Reveal bulbs, unless you are using a Canon camera as Canon's inferior(compared to many other b rands) white balance combined with the Bayer based sensor doesn't like GE Reveal bulbs a whole lot, and ends up giving color casts. Light must be diffused and/or bounced/reflected as well. Best to shoot using light/product tables and/or light tents/boxes/domes.

Expensive equipment is NOT a must! I have dSLR setups specifically for macros and close-up photography that cost $10K US and ~$100 US p&s(point and shoot) compacts and both work great! As long as your camera allows custom white balances to be set, has spot metering(or at least center weighted average.. but spot is like 10x better), has EV adjustments, has mechanical image stabilization(not software like Fuji), and aperture control(even this can be skipped if has to be), and user controllable ISO, and a good lens it can do the job perfectly well!

A light table with sides, light tent/box(bought or made), or dome is a must as well.

Key things:
1. Remember EV for white/black backgrounds
2. Spot or center weighted average metering
3. Proper lighting, diffusion, and angles
4. Set a proper custom white balance
5. Keep your angles proper
6. White for colored gemstones, black for white/clear ones, ONLY, all other colors mess with the stones color saturation & tone as well as can hide possible zoning and windows as well, too many chances for misrepresentation any other way.
7. Keep photo editing minimal! Only fix what needs fixed and try to refrain from "enhancing" to make the image look better.
8. Take your time. Learn your camera's features and functions. Bracket your exposure for shots until you are comfortable judging proper exposure.
9. Use a good tripod unless you have mechanical image stabilized equipment(not software based like Fuji and some others use).
10. Lastly, again, always remember, any backgrounds/bases as well as any props with color cause inaccurate capture/reproduction of color tones & saturations, can hide zoning & windows, add colors due to dispersion & pseudo dispersion, etc.


If anyone has any specifics on lighting, building/design things, specific cameras, etc. just ask. Over 25yrs+ of photography, 15yrs+ of macro/close-up/product photography, and 8yrs+ of gemstone/jewelry photography I have picked up quite bit of tips, tricks, and DIY things and I don't mind sharing! :). I am also quite familiar with most cameras on the market over the last 10yrs as well as I consult on them and have either owned or at the very least shot with & tested many of the makes and models of each make. :).


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 1:24 am 
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Hey swish, when are you moving in?

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:30 am 
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Quote:
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Holy crap that's a pretty stone!


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 7:36 am 
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You mean it's the same one? :D


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 8:59 am 
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Wow swish..you just gave some great info..aand Trace that post by FW is a classic..I nhave referenced it many times...need to flag it for sure this time so I don't have to searh it out each time

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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 1:54 pm 
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Swishman wrote:
9. Use a good tripod unless you have mechanical image stabilized equipment(not software based like Fuji and some others use).


Just a note, everyone, make sure you remember to turn OFF your mechanical image stabilization if you are using a tripod, and whenever possible use a remote shutter release. Swishman, have you noticed the subtle "softness" introduced by image stabilization being on while a tripod is in use?


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 07, 2009 8:38 pm 
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It all depends Karim. Some IS is NOT meant for use on a tripod, but some are designed to be able to be used while on a tripod. But, best practice is to turn it off!

Yes, a remote shutter and MLU(mirror lock up) are both options that should be used. The MLU is only available on some dSLRs and SLRs, not on P&S since they have no shutters per say. If you don't have a remote or can't use one the timer function will work fine as well.

If one truly wants to have accurate colors though you must use a camera that has a FoveonX3 sensor, since currently it is the only sensor on the market that can actually capture true colors due to each photosite(pixel for simple terms) being able to actually capture RGB and not capture only a single color and then interpolate(guess) at the other two using data from surrounding photosites. Using Bayer based sensor cameras only allows you to get close to accurate colors. The FoveonX3 also captures much more dynamic range(DR) then your standard Bayer based cameras(medium format digitals and some full frame digitals excluded).


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