August 3-4—SAN FRANCISCO, CALIFORNIA; Annual show; San Francisco Gem & Mineral Society; San Francisco County Fair Building, Golden Gate Park, 9th Avenue & Lincoln Way; Sat. 10-6, Sun. 10-5
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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 09, 2019 7:42 pm 
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My opinion, based on lots of examples I have seen, accurately dated by the hallmark, is that the work under the enamel is typical mid Georgian (say 1790 - 1800). Later examples usually have the under-enamel work engine turned (easier and cheaper to do). I could be wrong, styles of work were carried on for many years in individual workshops and I can't see a hallmark that would give us a definite date. In any event, the quality of gold points to a date pre 1854, since after that date, as a mass produced item, it would have been made in 9 ct.


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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 6:59 am 
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I feel that the lack of wear, not only is the glass not worn, but also the pearls, indicates that it was not originally a ring. As you have observed, rings get heavy wear. If this was a ring, but escaped wear by not being worn, why put a new shank on? The original shank would surely be undamaged in that case. The fact that the glass can be easily removed also points to tampering, usually bezel set items are put in really tightly. Get a stereo microscope and look for points where brooch or pendant fittings might have been put.


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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Fri Jan 11, 2019 11:17 pm 
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:D You may be right....but I still think the piece is newer.

Just as a sidebar, I've been professionally dealing with Georgian and Victorian jewelry since the early 1970's. I didn't just roll off a turnip truck. :wink:


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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 11:34 am 
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Barbra, as you must know, I have the greatest respect for your knowledge and ability, but even you must admit that dating a piece stylistically is, at best, an educated guess. There are still workmen in Birmingham (and, I'll warrant, all other jewellery manufacturing areas) who will copy a style perfectly, although few do it to defraud (one fraud that was detected, though, was because the copy was too good). If you add together the slow movement of fashion across the world, the way men and workshops will carry on in an old fashioned style because that is what they are used to and the desire of older people for items that remind them of their youth, style is a minefield.


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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Mon Jan 14, 2019 6:58 pm 
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Thanks for everyone's feedback. It has been very valuable to me. Since first developing an interest in antique jewellery, I have come to find that era-dating is less of a science and more of an opinion. This alone has been a learning for me!


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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 8:41 pm 
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This is especially true with American pieces as there are no hallmarking regulations.
Maker's marks can give us a clue, occasionally.

When it comes to jewellery made in the UK, quite the opposite is true. Proper hallmarks, date stamps, maker's marks make period identification a cinch.

That is why your hair ring is curious......on several levels.
9ct is thought of as being a metal quality used in the UK...but, where are the hallmarks, which by law, should be on all British jewelry.
There are no inscriptions with any names or dates of the deceased.

Are you appraising this for someone shelleymelissa?


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 Post subject: Re: Georgian era mourning ring - newer shank?
PostPosted: Wed Jan 16, 2019 8:59 pm 
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Thanks Barbra.

No, not appraising. It’s a piece that I bought myself that was sold as Georgian, but obviously it is a bit more complicated than this.


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