Hello, I use to cab and facet, unfortunately got out of it for a while but my interest is renewed. I have a 6" raytech trim saw that I got along with a lot of other equipment but it was a second 6" saw for me so I just put it away. I am planning to sell the saw to someone new to lapidary but when I checked the saw I noticed the blade ran backwards to what I'm used to seeing. The blade is not moving towards the table but upwards towards the blade guard. The saw was obviously well used as it was covered in dried oil and rock sludge Everything is securely mounted to a baseboard. I can flip the motor around and the blade will run down but I got to wondering if there would be a reason to run the blade backwards? The man that owned it is no longer with us so I can't ask him. If the vice lifted it seemed a sure fire way to bind and wreck a blade but he must have run it this way and cut a lot of stones. Anyone know of a reason to cut stones with the blade running backwards? Edit: I should have added that it is a continuous rim blade (the maker has worn off with use) 2nd edit: can't spell =) Thanks, Jim
Joined: Tue Jul 02, 2013 9:00 am Posts: 1322 Location: Wylie Texas but in Alaska for a while
This is from the Ultratech manual on using s trim saw.
1. Dop your stone and position the head as for grinding. 2. Move your lap speed knob to the maximum. 3. Provide a good flow of water, preferably with a little detergent. 4. Align your stone relative to the saw so that the first cut will remove the maximum amount of material. That removed piece, with its preformed table, is usually large enough to cut an additional faceted stone. 5.Feed the gem material into the saw within the area defined by the sketch, that is, if the saw is looked at as if it were numbered like a clock, with the facet head near six, the sawing is performed between 3 and 5, if the saw is rotating counter-clockwise. It will be between 7 and 9 if the saw is rotating clockwise.
Let's say you are cutting a large stone, and have cut it between 3 and 5. There will be a point where you can not advance any more. By changing the rotation, you can then cut it at 7 and 9. This will allow you to cut more material.
Joined: Thu Jan 24, 2008 4:01 pm Posts: 1902 Location: Pine City, NY and Dothan, AL
This is a regular trim saw, not a facet machine mounted blade. I wouldn't even consider using it with the blade trying to push the material up off the table. I'm not that brave. I don't fancy a chunk of rock in the eye.
Joined: Wed Sep 02, 2015 10:52 pm Posts: 1131 Location: Central Queensland, Australia
Stephen Challener wrote:
If you're sawing a stone you should be wearing eye protection anyway.
Yep - plenty of occasions (mainly on the heaviest cabbing machine wheel but easily possible on a saw) where a little chip has bounced off my safety glasses, would have gone straight into my eye if not for the eye protection.
Neither of my trim saws has a spray guard at the front edge, just the guard over the blade. I think I should put one in place - the flavour and aroma of rock sludge-filled oil in my beard isn't the nicest
My ring saw has a good splash guard but I always wear a respirator while sawing or cutting so I don't taste too much rock dust. Add ear protection and you really get a party going.
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