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 Post subject: Master Laps
PostPosted: Fri Jun 02, 2017 6:23 pm 
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Is there anything to choose from between vendors for an 8" master lap? Are they all about the same? thanks


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 Post subject: Re: Master Laps
PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 12:45 pm 
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Location: San Marcos, CA
All machining tolerances vary from the machinist. So yes they can be quite different from source to source.
I would suggest finding a reliable shop like Gearloose who machines all their laps to perfection.
JMO
Greg

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 Post subject: Re: Master Laps
PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 3:08 pm 
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Thank you! I had some prior (bad) experience as a novice that had me chasing my tail.


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 Post subject: Re: Master Laps
PostPosted: Sat Jun 03, 2017 5:26 pm 
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Nobody machines anything to perfection and stays in business.

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 Post subject: Re: Master Laps
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 3:36 pm 
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Make an index mark on the both the master lap and machines platen, where you can see it of course, and ramdomly at first lock it down and check for flutter...when you find the sweet spot for that lap make a more permanant mark....then do so for every other lap you put on the master.


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 Post subject: Re: Master Laps
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:43 pm 
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Thank you, I will do that. I know whatever I buy will have some run out. Best to minimize its impact. Years ago, it was "Accurate, cheap, fast; pick two" nowadays it is fortunate if you can pick one.


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 Post subject: Re: Master Laps
PostPosted: Mon Jun 05, 2017 4:59 pm 
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Location: Wylie Texas but in Alaska for a while
When I bought my used machine, it had a pin drilled in the platen near the nut and a small hole in each lap. That way always went on in the same spot. I have made the pin removable, but on my master lap. and most others, I find the sweat spot and drill the index hole.

I probably would not have done this on a new machine, but since it was already done, I have taken advantage of it.

I know that drilling a hole can change the balance. But it is a small hole, very close to the nut, so the affect is very small.

When I was replacing the bearings in the spindle, I went ahead and balanced the spindle and drive cone (on a UT). It was actually way off balance. (more than could be accounted for from the slight increase weight from the steel pin.

On my BATTS. I remove the pin and use an alignment mark that I made on the lap. I use the master lap at all times, so there is an alignment mark on the edge that is files in with a small V file.


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