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 Post subject: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2021 12:13 pm 
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Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 57
Location: Madrid (Spain)
Hi Everybody,

Hope ALL ARE DOING WELL!!! After this strange period of time, I resume my passion and my contact with everyone again.

I would like to know your opinion about this ring, what do you think about the emerald 10.75X7.30mm, cut down collet-set in yellow gold closed backed mount. Could be an Iberian Georgian Ring???An example of three stone ring. Amazing piece.
Thanks and Happy to be in the forum again !!!


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 Post subject: Re: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2021 3:28 pm 
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Joined: Sun Oct 16, 2005 12:22 pm
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Location: San Francisco
Welcome back! We missed you. :)

I presume there is no stamping or hallmarking on the piece.
What is the fineness of the gold?
What are the stones on the sides?
Method of manufacture?
Closed back, could the stones be foil-backed?
Why Iberian?

The construction of the ring is very crude.
I would expect considerably more finesse from 18th century Iberian metal smiths. Iberian metal work coupled with their vast, established trade routes is legendary.
https://www.lillicoco.com/blogs/love-li ... -jewellery
Example of Iberian emerald earrings, circa 1790 . The emeralds in the earrings below were likely sourced in Colombia and Peru.
Image

Image courtesy of Bell & Bird


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 Post subject: Re: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2021 5:13 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
Posts: 57
Location: Madrid (Spain)
Dear Barbra!!!

As always it´s a pleasure to hear from You, your Help and feedbacks.
You´re right there is no stamps or hallmarking on the piece.

The fineness of the gold is 18K on the shank, a tapered fluted shank with ornate embracing snakes pierced shoulders. Later addition it has an old resizing mark to the hoop in 18K Gold

The stones on the sides I presume are chrysoberyl, but could be peridot as well (not so common), as the stones are not too big and are back-foiled is difficult to me to be accurate.
When I mean close-back, yes I want to say foiled-backed. Sorry for my poor English!
I attach some links with examples of rings with the same characteristics and appearance.
https://www.bentley-skinner.co.uk/londo ... ster-ring/
https://www.antiquejewellerycompany.com ... ster-ring/
https://www.1stdibs.com/jewelry/rings/c ... j_3355373/ (I disagree that this ring is Victorian)
I agree with you that the construction is crude, but these above examples like to me crude too.

Why I think it could be an Iberian ring? It is just a guess. The design preference for dramatic, ‘tall’ mounts seems to be a regional feature of 18th century rings made in southern Europe (Spain, Portugal), the use of emeralds always present due to Colombia, ...
I attach some more photos in case they could be of help. Thank you and very happy to be in touch again
Best Regards!!!


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 Post subject: Re: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Tue Oct 19, 2021 4:08 pm 
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A case can tangentially be made on the piece being Spanish/Portugese/Iberian, based on the age of the cutting style of the diamonds coupled with the Spanish being the most active traders of South American goods in the 16th through 18th century.
But the trade of these items did not stop when they were brought back to the Iberian Peninsula.

Therefore, who had an indirect access to Brazilian or Colombian gemstones in the 1700s?

Spain controlled a large portion of Northern Africa at that time as did France, Britain and even the Ottoman empire.

So, who made this famous emerald ring?

Still thinking. :?


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 Post subject: Re: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2021 12:55 am 
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Tell me about the ring shank, Anabell. Is it fabricated? Looks like some porosity on the inside of the shank. But I could be mistaken.
The diamond settings, gold or silver? Some pics look gold, some silver. Are there any stones left in the outer settings?
Any 3 phase inclusions in the emeralds?
Know anyone with a raman to test those side stones?

After spending the day researching Georgian jewelry from the Iberian Peninsula, Russia, England, Italy, France, the Netherlands and the US, I agree it certainly has all the characteristics of a Georgian piece, that was worn a lot.


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 Post subject: Re: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2021 9:14 am 
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Joined: Sat Jun 22, 2013 9:02 am
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Location: Madrid (Spain)
Dear Barbra!
You cannot imagine how grateful I am to your Time and Dedication. Before bothering you and asking you, I have tried to do my homework
For me any doubt, the shank is hand made. Two snakes hugging each other in the shank.
A later gold hoop was added to reinforce the weakness and breakage of the original shank and to be able to adjust and resize it (some glue was added too!! Horrible!!!).
Regarding the size this ring belonged to a male, at the same time the emerald size was not common at the time in these kind of rings approx. 3 carats, a pretty big size stone for the time. That´s why I presume could be an Iberian Georgian Ring (despite I found the ring in Spain). something really curious today it´s that the only color gem valued for the Spanish ladies nowadays are the Emeralds (History Inherence???)
Not in my case. I'm passionate about Burmese rubies.
Diamonds are all silver setting, and you find diamonds in the outer settings, with 10X magnification for me rose-cut diamonds.
Now and for circumstances I am living in Oviedo (North Spain, small city), I don´t know anybody who has a Raman. Sides stones, could be crystals back foiled, chrysoberyl's or peridots.
The Emerald has 3 phase inclusions.
I´ll try to attach some more pics.
Warms Regards,
Anabell


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 Post subject: Re: GEORGIAN RING???
PostPosted: Wed Oct 20, 2021 12:09 pm 
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I actually think you nailed it in your original speculation. I do not see many Iberian pieces, let me clarify, I don't see Iberian pieces which is why I was out of my comfort zone with identification of the piece.
The Georgian (time period) pieces I encounter are English or French and occasionally Russian.
Thank you for sharing all you have on this piece because it has been really informative, and I would welcome any additional information you get on the ring.


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